Just when I think I can’t put off tackling the floor much longer, new challenges and opportunities present themselves. Before I could layout the Hardibacker cement boards so I could make the cuts I would need for complete coverage, I thought I should remove the remaining bathtub plumbing fixtures (water supply lines and drain connection) to make measuring as simple and accurate as possible. Unable to get the drain to pop up through the floor resulted in another excursion into the crawlspace so I could unhook the drain where it connected with the pvc line.
A reader recently asked me if I have any help on this project. Well, I guess it all depends on your definition of help. If you consider the following photo as evidence of “help,” then yes, I have more than I need.
Actually, I am getting a bunch of help via emails and calls from readers who have tips or general encouragement to keep the work moving along.
Another potential issue is the copper pipe that serves as the cold water supply to the tub. After loosening the uppermost nut with my handy pipe wrench and removing the supply line, I noticed that the pipe appears to be busted. I mean, it isn’t an even edge at all, and I can’t imagine that that is how it is “supposed” to look. The hot water supply line on the other hand is quite smooth. (You can’t tell in the photo because I have it taped off to prevent debris from falling into the opening.) Man, I really don’t want to call in a plumber at this point, but I may end up having to do so.
At least I can now make my cuts in the cement board and get that installed. Oh, now I remember what else I wanted to mention. To lay tile near the door jamb, I assume the proper way to do it is to saw about a half-inch off the bottom of the jamb in order to lay the cement board and tile and thinset under it- rather than say, cutting tiles to fit around the bottom of the jamb. If I did that, I would be screwed in the future if I ever needed to remove the door. RIGHT?